Photo: CFP
Author: Zhao Xinyu
It is said that Lanzhou hand-extended noodles per family impacted within 50 metres of a snack, Sha, both China's rapidly-expanding beverage brands, who is Lake Overlord? In April 2015, the birthplace of Lanzhou hand-extended noodles official delegations coming to Fujian shaxian County of Qinghai Hualong Hui autonomous organizations learn from investigation "development and branding of shaxian snacks."
Snacks do have enough confidence, Sha: Qinghai Hualong people elsewhere to Lanzhou ramen Museum, began in the early 1980 's and snacks until 1991, Sha in Fuzhou Street appearances, after a few years out of Fujian, the real things to the country since 2000, today, in Beijing alone, hang, Sha snacks signboard shop over 1500.
Sha County Government also appears to have enough confidence to tell visitors to preach: shaxian County in 1997 on the establishment of a special "snack industry leading Group Office", and began hosting "Sha snack culture Festival", Sha snacks come from behind, they even look forward to Sha snacks listed eventually.
Lanzhou, people liked to say that all the Chinese people eat noodles is not authentic, but authentic people opened snacks, Sha, Sha authentic? Exclusive new restaurant layout new transformation
What is authentic, Sha snacks
In May 2015, snacks, Sha Zhang Xin, Director of the Office to the media said: "authentic Sha shop most often do is ' old four ', namely flat meat, stew, steamed dumplings and noodles. "He said this is to attack those banner Sha snacks in Beijing, was not included in the official background Sha snack Association to manage the hundreds of copycat store, say their product localization, even selling the capital popular rice bowls, with no shadow, Sha.
Today's "Sha four treasures"
Although Sha Beijing snacks provided Braised chicken Bento, but snack Office Director's summary of the classic menu, Sha, Sha, or be able to obtain most Diners agree. However, in 1996, Sha Sha County magistrate Liu Daoqi mentioned in an article list of snacks is another: a flat series of meat, tofu, beef, biscuits.
You read that right, the standards of 20 years ago, Sha snacks, didn't most famous noodles, steamed dumplings, more on top of that, still comes a sesame seed.
Again ahead dates back, we will see a more strange of Sha snacks listing: at main praised flat meat and tofu of Sha County pour OK, up to is let outsiders understanding can't they tofu "raw, and cooked eat are can" of fun, but in Sha snacks of birthplace Xia Maozhen--if here is most authentic words, those snacks of name and we familiar of Sha snacks without detached:
Rice irrigation and pig intestines, rice irrigation lung, fried tofu ... ... And unique xiamao Shao Mai--it was sweet shaomai filling, fermented bread as the main material, with lard, seaweed, sugar, fine plus Orange bread and crushed peanuts. Just by looking at the name, you'll find these things seems to be difficult to be accepted by all the Chinese people.
Repeated in the snack menu, Sha, Sha bian meat: looks like a plain wonton little difference because the meat knife chopping with a bat named after the beating
2007 is local Government put Sha snacks business standardization as "Sha snacks industry development of heavy in the of heavy work" to caught of a years, when published of Sha Yearbook in the included has a article "snacks do" wrote of a article Sha snacks main dish type of articles, listed has flat food, and taro package, and tofu pills, and Shao Mai (salt sour spicy taste unlimited) and meters frozen, inside still no general people familiar of mix surface, and stew tank, and steamed dumplings.
In order to facilitate people across the country to promote authentic snacks, Sha, Sha published a book by the local Party Secretary of the Sha Chi Qiuna preface snack stories for flat food, fried snails, curd balls, taro ... ... 20 snacks are equipped with at least one "folk tale", noodles and dumplings did not benefit from this treatment.
Book contains a "Sha Peng snack treat soldiers" story, because it is difficult to find level figures like Marshal Peng Dehuai for snacks, Sha blessing, so the story of Peng Dehuai in 12 local food at this dinner altogether, is a pity, even though such wholesale opportunities, still couple of noodles, steamed dumplings.
Sha Government of "norms", although James snack standards, but more authentic than Sha snack menus all over the country, but they then know too slow but still good at mending-Sha-people across the country have formed after snack stereotype, time righting procedure:
Today Sha County Government website "Sha snack" pages, "Sha noodles" has been placed at the forefront, it was pushing the official rice frozen skin, tofu balls into the second page of the list. However, the "Sha noodles" is still not being recognized as "famous Chinese snack".
Sha County Government website "Sha snacks" page is the first page, and click on pictures you can see "Sha noodles" is not included in the noted Chinese snacks, but topped the list. "Rice frozen skin", "hearts tofu" does not appear on the first page
Why is pasta dumplings
If snacks, Sha Sha can effectively regulate the national snack, people probably wouldn't see Sha snack bar near the doorway, snacks, Sha, China history of war, in fact, Sha was a snack "not authentic."
The late 1990 's, foreigners exposed to snacks, Sha has become flat meat, noodles, stew and dumplings this four things, Sha in the supremacy of tofu, leaving counties, Sha, Sha no traces in the snack. Flat meat, noodles, stew and dumplings are traditional foods in Fuzhou.
1999 Sha snack menu
As early as during the Republic of China, Fuzhou sells flat meat, broth, noodles, meat, onion, meat pie, not in the dish, and the sale of or lo mei shops, known as "soup noodle shop" from a business point of view, clear noodle soup store than in shaxian County in the early 90 's snack bar is closer to today's "authentic Sha snacks."
Reform and opening up, foreign brands crowding out the traditional size of market, Sha Fuzhou did not make food beauty alone, Shang Gan Zhen in Minhou County, Fuzhou City, the famous shanggan heart flat meat noodles shop known as the century-old, still in Fuzhou City and shaxian snack tit-for-tat, grabbed a flat meat, half of the noodles.
Dumplings don't have to tell you, the stew is almost essential cooking utensils in Fuzhou in the past. Even during the great famine in 1961, enamel factory in Fuzhou have "yield a large number of jobs, stew pots, dishes and bowls and other products" in the media, specifically refers to the stew, showing its place in Fuzhou food.
Today, the stew still occupies a place in Fuzhou cuisine
Stew the content at least at the beginning of the Reformation established in: lamb stew, pork stew, chicken and mushroom stew, pig's Trotter stew pot, but earlier Fuzhou snack bar is always used the stew with noodles for breakfast. Stew Riga used in Chinese medicine, or at least popular in the early 80 's.
Sha snack wars era of Fuzhou at an early age, dry powder, char kway Teow, wire, fishing, such as Fujian delicacies and flat meat, noodles, stew and dumplings. Besides dumplings, late 90 early 21st century Sha snacks also sell dumplings-the dumplings steamed dumplings, available with the Fujian snacks brands on the market power of "Harbin dumplings" competitive dislocation.
Snack out of Fujian, Sha, Sha snack menu will automatically go through a screening, char kway Teow, wire, fishing and other unfamiliar snacks outside of Fujian were directly eliminated, conversion to a common form of noodles, fans left in the menu. Flat meat, noodles, stew and dumplings were constantly hardening.
Sha snacks all over the country to retain the "old four-like" of course. Three of the four samples are already passing the national snack:
Beijing Sesame Noodles, scallion oil noodles in Shanghai, Chengdu has flowered garlic chili oil noodles ... ... Taste lighter Sha Lo Mein is not hard to find intersections. From Jilin, Henan, Sichuan from Tianjin, steamed dumplings are not much different from around the country. Flat meat when Sha snacks out of Fujian, have voluntarily changed its name for the ravioli.
Spicy Sesame Noodles, leek oil, onion oil noodles
The stew was hard to pop in the North, behind the but it is incomparable: Cantonese people pay attention to soup, as well as Hong Kong people, Hong Kong films have appeared in "I'll give you x soup to replenish the body." In the early 21st century Sha snacks guide the country, Hong Kong movie influence on Chinese not Sha County Government, is to add up all the Fujian media cannot be compared.
If you are too "old four" too monotonous, menus with local popular dish is Sha snack things often do. Around 2004, Fuzhou, Sha snack bar there sell gift Thunder, even for cooking more profitable, enough gas available in the store will give priority to cooking.
Snacks dominate rivers and Lakes
Snacks, Sha Director emphasizes authentic Sha snacks are "old four" is easy to understand: If Braised Chicken Rice has been popular, it is sure to be the standard across China, Sha snacks, which ultimately force the Sha on the official website of the Government posthumously awarded its "authentic".
Braised Chicken with rice
If we believe the official, Sha Sha snacks to the country's biggest drivers, it is difficult to explain, "snack" why the country would accept "Sha snacks" unresponsive, when they carefully packaged Sha authentic tapas terrible lag, visible on the outside, Sha snack development of diaphragm and strange.
We are already familiar with official power, Sha Sha snack conquest, driven by China's legend, but in local CE, Sha other snacks rise also folklore version:
In August 1992, shaxian County experienced a "it would" collapse triggered by a severe financial crisis. Among the xiamao town "would be" the most serious, official statistics, "" boom, the town has more than 1000 people carrying bedding out creditors, Fuzhou became 300 miles away where most run away from people, operates a snack bar to be these people preferred to live, so have the earliest Sha snacks, xiamao town, shaxian snack originated.
Sha snacks after the Fujian gradually make a name and size, only the official "snack". Sha in the snack market in Fujian province, between 1999-2000 accidents decline, revenues declined at 20%-30%. Sha officials noted immediately from a food problem.
Xiamao town development leading group for it in the snack industry xiamao snack pointed out in a letter from the owner, advantage is that the quality of employees, Sha snacks low, snack bars are small, low quality, not McDonald's, KFC, "comfortable operating environment and food hygiene, good taste" of strong competition.
However, this seems in line with the classical management tutorial conclusion was a mockery of the market, more than 10 years later, snack store, health, services, Sha did not see change, but vigorous growth, expanded to every part of the country. If not is not registered with the Association, Sha store, store numbers and turnover have also found several times.
Now "ubiquitous" Sha snack store
More importantly, as the "culinary nationalism" the rise of fast food almost dare not show in Sha snacks "good taste": the famous Michelin restaurant Western food, also in oral jokes are becoming "just plates big" noodles, Sha.
In this changing world, Sha County Government is a little bit difficult. What they can do, but food network who sincerely praise of Sha Wen, famous network with the song loyal in the same column, on their website, if they are positive publicity for Sha snacks.
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