Said Chen Xiaoqing is the possibility that some people only know that he is a documentary film director of the bite of China, did not know before the shooting of the tongue, he has been writing the column. For Chen Xiaoqing, in fact, he prefers to write, when I'm writing "he is his own master, wrote what they wanted to write."
Chen Xiaoqing Yang Ming photography
Recently, Chen Xiaoqing gourmet notes gathered in book form published for ten years, named to the world. "Initially wanted to name the best people, because I value the most are and who eat together. "Chen Xiaoqing, as compared to food connoisseurs, he is more like a bunch of old men sitting in the street-side eating, not spend money, but that security will remember with affection.
After the broadcast of the tongue on the China, there have been many "tongue restaurant", "tongue Street", Chen Xiaoqing even tried to speak for the restaurant. But Chen Xiaoqing think it is conflict with his ideas, "this restaurant is a specimen, the blood had drained the eating equivalent of going out with a mummy. How could eat everything around the country in one place? "But for those businesses created by the gastronomic culture, Chen Xiaoqing stresses" in the food, "precious," really enjoy is the place to eat is there is such a thing. "
In recent days, surging News (www.thepaper.CN) on issues such as the commercialization of Chinese food culture and cuisine interviewed Chen Xiaoqing.
Surging News: between the bite of China and the world, one food, one is writing, for you, what is the biggest difference between the two? Which one do you prefer?
Chen Xiaoqing: here's the thing, to taste most of the content is in the book room of the tongue was written before, is the desk of the tongue of a preparation. In fact these two things, the feeling is completely different. TV is a collective creation, coordination, you need to consider all aspects of things, needs a lot of people. If photographers like this, directors like that, recording like this, it will be ruined. Even if drivers are not happy, you can't shoot. So the job more important compromises on television, real creative parts before you actually begin filming had finished.
What about if I had to choose, I prefer to write. Because of the time of writing, I was my own master, I wrote what I wanted to write. For example, I prefer to eat sweet, greasy foods, such as broth, I love to eat. But TV can't have pork intestines, because it needs to face the audience, for a lot of people to see, you take responsibility for other people. But article I can according to their own wishes to write this thing.
Surging News: your columns and your Director of this film have in common? Is there something you have been more insistent on the thing?
Chen Xiaoqing: I was boring myself, I think this should give readers and viewers to judge. In fact some people in my Twitter messages, or send me a direct message, said there are some qualities in common: food from the food level cognitive, not from food production level cognitive, more of a cultural awareness; care for the taste of the food, for example, is also concerned about a number of other keywords, such as home, family, and so on. Someone give me a message, saying only a small piece in my hometown, it's on my tongue. I met friends.
Surging News: because you come into contact with the country's gastronomic culture, can you summarize the characteristics of the Chinese food culture of some of the more centralized?
Chen Xiaoqing: I couldn't really summarize it, I don't even have to think. Why think about it? Why summarize it? Because the cuisine is very diverse, each food has its fresh vitality. Why summed up a total of a few? I think this is hurting food, like eight of items bound for fine food. Development of Chinese food is bad, is because there is an "eight cuisine" hoop that has been set. I feel that every dish has its own life, each family's food is different, each has its own characteristics.
Surging News: so you oppose our enhanced "items" concept?
Chen Xiaoqing: Yes. Items are fantastic, especially divided by administrative division. Items are not, eight items to be raised only after the liberation, this is a good thing. When I first took a bite, they said to me, "why don't you shoot eight episodes? Seven set is very sad! Eight-episode, eight items an take a set. "
But I think there are items there is a unified set of rules, it will tell you what to do is "wrong", even more delicious it is wrong, because fathers are not the same. This is so boring, some provinces such as Anhui, it is the difference between the North and the South are particularly high, with the "cuisine" to sum up it is very funny. Hubei is the same, very far removed from East and West. Hunan, Western Hunan Changsha, and very, very far away, but are unified "restaurant".
Surging News: but it seems like a lot of places now in pursuit of standardization of the diet, such as the development of a "fried rice" standards. What do you think?
Chen Xiaoqing: it's ridiculous. Yangzhou fried rice of Yangzhou have no relationship, just like Hainanese chicken rice, nothing to do with Hainan. We want to investigate the role of wives in wife cake how much you? Sliced beef with a relationship?! A food name have to the Government for research, it's just too absurd, sliding the large collection of the world. But for them, it is an industry, or what you say they do, they know nothing about, can only organize experts to engage in these wages to earn some money.
Surging News: now, big cities like Beijing, Shanghai, said bringing together the country's cuisine. But in Shanghai feel very authentic Cantonese cuisine. In your opinion, regional impact on diet is particularly large? For example there is a dish in this place is delicious, change flavor in other places?
Chen Xiaoqing: logistics now is changing everything. Because these things change, so "food" will be even more valuable. You see the tongue in more remote places, in fact, that is also the reason, found only in the most authentic food. Not that Shanghai won't get any good Cantonese food, I can recommend a few good Cantonese Restaurant, but you can take up to 20 times more than the Canton times the money, you will be able to enjoy, it's Economics said.
More importantly, I think also from culture to understand this thing. You go to a place to enjoy good food, not just a taste. You eat lamb kebabs and lamb kebabs you to Urumqi in Beijing, are lamb kebabs, the same form, even the taste difference is not particularly big, Grill damage to food have been larger, but you could hear people talk of ear sound, nose smell of Xinjiang's unique taste. Really enjoy is the place to eat something that belonged there.
After the broadcast of a bite, a lot of people did a lot of in the name of the tongue of the restaurant of the tongue, even someone who wanted me to help these restaurants represent. First of all, I said, and my ideas are conflict, I can not accept. Restaurant cuisine to the guests, just soaked specimen in formalin, it's blood had been drained, this is equivalent to going out with a mummy, how could eat everything around the country in one place? It is simply can't do a thing. Natural geographical or cultural geography of food, it is a root, blood, leaving the land, blood is blocked without a Foundation, it is frivolous. It's like folk singers in the National Park. Original folk songs was a boy sees a girl, saw a boy or a girl, they want to live together, so will be genuinely sing folk songs, it is from the heart. But now in the national garden, he sang folk songs mainly for the money. It's like not taking sex to have sex, only special occupations do. Actually unify the food in one place into another place, mainly commercial works.
Surging News: some say Sichuan cuisine can be a lot of people to accept because there were a lot of immigrants flocked to Sichuan, what do you think about this problem?
Chen Xiaoqing: polymerization of the food is birth place, that's for sure, since ancient times like this. Or a more topless cuisine, very loud food, is definitely in the port city. Terminal city of Chengdu is not particularly large because it populations of less intensive, but Chengdu is good. More typical like Chongqing, like Shanghai, Guangzhou, Wuhan, this large port city, after these cities as soon as the history of rings, it will have its own unique flavor of the city. For example, Changsha, Changsha knew it the instant you arrive is to Changsha, which were floating in the air that smell. You went to Shunde, Shunde, think it is, it has a special taste is waiting for you. Chengdu is the same.
But some cities, some vague taste of the city, because the very large fault happens in between. Shenzhen, Nanjing, for example is more mixed. I went to Nanjing two days before signing, many viewers have asked me, why the Nanjing section of the tongue a little. I say food is attached to the body, a place where people have a tradition, the city is fixed, and around Yangzhou, Nanjing, Suzhou, Changzhou, Changshu, gaochun even compared, are vague, many of you readers agree.
Surging public information: to book in the world you wanted is named the best man, can you tell why?
Chen Xiaoqing: I would have liked to make funny. Because I used to have articles, and never heard from the collection, which I wrote in diary of a madman, which Lu said China's thousands of years of history, is read every page of "cannibalism" in two words. So I said "most delicious", it would be a little play on words meaning in it.
But for me personally, the three topics about food: where to eat, what to eat, and with whom to eat, I care more about or with whom to eat. Food is not only creating, but more importantly, it is a shared process. I think the worst thing is not the food did taste bad, but here are particularly annoying. I sometimes eat particularly nervous, like I did after the tongue will often participate in tasting, each will be very, very nervous, because people are not familiar with bad language, my English is poor, together with foreigners to eat, I don't even know what to say, such a case I would think nothing of good things. Only when after the familiar, slowly things become good. I prefer eating and a bunch of old men sitting in the street, not spend money, but that security will remember with affection.
Surging News: you said you like to watch most of Wang zengqi's writing articles about food, old article where Wang touched you?
Chen Xiaoqing: actually, I had a special love of food articles, the article I see a lot of other people, but my favorite is Wang. Summing up, I think it may be based on three points. First, taste of home and the closest I've been described by Wang Lao. Wang of gaoyou people and the North one, I'm from Huaibei, Anhui people, we call a lot of food, including lots of food, were very close. I also like to watch Wang Shixiang, like Tang Lu-sun, Zhu Zhenfan, Chua Lam. From the taste, I definitely prefer Wang, he ate what I have learned.
The second is, Mr Wang's written too well, his writing skills were too strong. And his most recent was Lu Wenfu, may he biwang know more about eating, but if you take literally, Wang lead too much than he was. I think Mr Wang is one of those has been the operation of various styles were very, very good at it. He was able to write a lot of metrical poetry, write texts, like the Sha Jia bang inside "built seven cookers, kettles boil in Sanjiang, spread out along, for 16. To all guests, all by mouth. Meet laugh, do not consider "the Lakes slang he is familiar with. He after the war, from high school to go to Southwest, tossing in the Middle for so long, and then after so many times of political struggle, nothing will. People like him in this category, such as yan Su wrote of the Jiang Jie (Opera), his sister Jiang not written well, you let him write Pu Zhi Gao and he wrote a very good--"political circles for many years is good or bad, who now is hard for who is busy. "You see Air Force Commander liuyalou said," it's too terrible, too negative, you can't use this. "People of their generation, are in fact such, influenced by the traditional education, and then there is new thinking, while and ordinary people live together in maximum, so the devil, strong hands. But Mr Wang is the choice of the most simple words to write about food. He did not even professional, System articles to food, are scattered around the text, and is often and travel together. For example he wrote Roberts Yang Wei: "I had Caramelized Apples, caramelized potatoes, caramelized banana, never eating caramelized Yang Wei, a pack of sheep tail is full of oil, almost all liquid caramel shell, much more greasy, oil, which can only be used in ancestor worship, people can not eat, because it was so delicious. "His skill was the last to see many things you see, you gasped. For example he experienced life with theatre people to Chongqing. Beijing Chongqing spicy are afraid, are said not to eat. Said's we eat dumplings tonight, and entered the hotel, said a repertoire reaches: "boss, I bowl of chili. "He will use this approach to narrative, the previous was the Setup, I think this is very, very good place.
Third, Mr Wang intellectuals of the scholar-officials. His life has gone through many hardships, several ups. On the Southwest, and participate in the "bidding" down to Federation in Beijing, and was labelled as a "right" to Zhangjiakou painting, farming, and later was transferred to Peking Opera melodrama, smash the "gang of four", Jiang Qing, was said to be after reds. Over the years he had seen everything, I think his mentality is particularly good. He knew the world was a rift, he said many times, he saw everything, including his novels, are clouds. He does not believe anything, but he just loves his hometown. He lived in Beijing for so many years, and never felt he was in Beijing. On this point I share, I did not think national security is my team, I feel that I am who I am, I live in this city, I was independent. Wang zengqi's writing as a child, he often eats puncture vine, but he does not like, as puncture vine always with salted vegetables cooked, there is no food, to drink the puncture vine pickle soup, so he will always remember to puncture vine that smell. Later, once he's in Shen Cong-Wen's home, seeing his wife Zhang puncture vine meat, he feels quite good, then go home to his family in also bought Sagittaria sagittifolia fried dishes, results agree with everybody, he was the only one to eat. The text he used was: "is one of my ' baoyuaner '. "" Baoyuaner "three words or quotes, meaning I am politely with Beijing to prove that they are not the people. He concluded by saying: "I miss my hometown of winter, I really want a bowl of Sagittaria sagittifolia pickle soup. "I feel this emotion of his hometown, for their loved ones, all from the heart. He said, "home for the exhibition shelf are" North winter indoor with a layer of French Windows, called exhibition shelf are children, are generally removed in Yenan, clean, winter cold paste white lattice paper, loaded and feeling separated from the cold outside. He used eight words, called "families sit, and amiable." I think something like that is called classic, these eight words to people power is the kind of quiet things. Mr Wang we learn for a lifetime, but not as we learn, that's why I like him.
To taste in the world of book illustration
Surging News: everybody's definition of food is a very personal, but now there are so many food connoisseurs, this is a kind of commercial career?
Chen Xiaoqing: Yes. I don't like to be called gourmet, Gourmand is a commercial, he is going to make an unlimited number of comments. I want to be a writer like food, like old Wang. Lao Wang is not a gourmet, he and our authors like Lu Wenfu said a lot worse. But gourmet was (), write (), he wrote food as much as possible precisely. People want to know real writing and his heart against up and express not only the taste of food, but views on the world.
Surging News: that food in your opinion is the most important ground, rather than being appreciated as a work of art? Play Museum of the singer sentiment struck a chord
Chen Xiaoqing: can be used as a work of art to admire, none of this will stop. But for me, that is not the most important, this is not important to me. I want my food, I took pictures of food, everyone other than food, see life and death, love and hate, togetherness and separation.
Surging News: How do you see now that there are lots of bourgeois cuisine video, the picture looks very exquisite.
Chen Xiaoqing: delicious. Some "frigidity" (ingredients mix and serve very simple abstract style) the restaurant is delicious "frigidity" yucky "frigidity" disgusting "frigidity". Sex is not the problem, but innate. But some are regularly have orgasms, he to cold, it will look bad. I often eat cold food, I also have chef friends to do this kind of food, also has done very well.
(Intern Hu Hongjiao contributed to this article)
